3B Limo

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When I was younger and tougher (in other words, broke and ignorant) 1 enjoyed roughing it when I hunted and fished with my friends. Our camps were bare-bones affairs, and 1 still remember my old $2 chicken-feather surplus Army sleeping bag that had no warming properties whatsoever and a canvas tent (also surplus) that leaked like a sieve in a light mist. We preferred the romance of the open fire (we didn’t have a gas stove), so cooking meant impaling channel cats on green sticks and then squatting and coughing over a smoky fire.
Later there was a short-lived minimalist stage where I slept out in the open wrapped in a cheap plastic tarp. On clear nights I marveled at the white smear in the sky we know as the Milky Way; on cloudy nights I learned to fear the first faint drops of rain.
I still have buddies who enjoy backpacking or striking off to a spike camp, and they willingly sacrifice certain creature comforts because of a lack of adequate carrying capacity. Not me. Nowadays I camp out of the back of a big truck. Why? Because my rig lets me indulge myself. I take what I want and treat myself to all the luxuries of a new found five-star hotel.
By big, I mean full-size pickups and sport utilities, vehicles with the necessary room to store all your gear.
You’d be amazed at how even a half-truckload of the right items can move the pleasure needle into the ahh-yes! zone. Oversize captain’s chairs, a camp kitchen, thick airbeds, cots, a folding table, and coolers full of your livorite eats and drinks are some of the extras that are worth their weight (and space) in gold.
The fellow who taught me the virtues of abb-yes camping is Jim Reid, director of public relations for The Coleman Company. I first spoke with him about truck camping after a disastrous three-day outing in which I had elected to sleep in the bed of the pickup because the tent could not accommodate three adults, one of whom snored loud enough to wake the dead. At the time Jim and I were comfortably ensconced in his camp after a long, hard day of quail hunting along the Kansas-oklahoma border. He had just made the appetizer— fresh quail soup—and was preparing the main meal—grilled Kansas City strip steaks—as we enjoyed a libation. I noticed that for the first time in camp I was warm, comfortable, and completely relaxed.
“Yeah,” Jim said. “Basically, the happy camper is the one who sleeps well and eats well. Add convenience and comfort while loafing in camp, a righteous cocktail hour, and a big campfire, and you have all the ingredients for a world-class camp.” ‘So, how can you make sure you get a comfortable camp?” I asked.

B&M offers a full line of transmission performance accessories, but five are of particular interest to hunters and fishermen. All are designed for easy do-it-yourself installation.
1. Auxiliary transmission oil cooler. If you want more than
100,000 miles out of your transmission, get one of these. For what it does, it just may be the most inexpensive performance product on the market. ($60)
2. Deep oil pan. In a nutshell—more oil, better cooling. This is a must for 4×4 owners who tow. B&M deep pans also offer a drain plug that allows easier service of the transmission. The pan has a filter extension, which places the filter down toward the bottom of the pan where it can draw in the coolest oil.
($45—s 125) 3. Remote Transmission Filter.The other transmission killer is contamination of the fluid. A remote fIlter makes it easier to access and change the filter. ($30)
4. Temperature Gauge.The optimum operating range of the transmission fluid is between 160° and 200° E Above that, the fluid starts to lose its lubrication qualities.The B&M gauge is an analog model that displays temperatures from 100° to 3500 F. ($45)
5. Valve Body Recalibration Kit. Improves shifts. More important, it helps reduce slippage, which reduces heat. (Shift Improver Kit: $30; Transpak: $55)

It didn’t think me very long to learn how to tell a brown trout from a rainbow or brookie. And I easily mastered the differences
between a pumpkinseed and a bluegill. But when confronted with the redear, redbreast, or longear sunfish, things got a good deal more complicated. Even now, I occasionally consult a field guide to be sure. So it is with tires for a 4×4. With so many designs available, how can you identify the correct tire for your pickup or sport utility? Consulting the simplified “field guide” below can make things easier. Use it to narrow the choice to a particular type of tire.Then go to a dealer for information on the specific model within that tire type.
Essentially; there are four types of tires of concern to outdoors- men: 1. highway rib; 2. highway/all-season; 3. offroad/all-terrain; and 4. maximum-traction offroad.
1. Highway rib tires are most commonly used in commercial applications. (A rib is the standing tread that circles the tire.) The design provides good, even wear, low noise levels, and a smooth ride. Highway rib tires usually have a four- or five-rib design. Each rib is siped, which means the ribs have little slashes that help provide biting edges for traction in dirt, slush, and snow. The grooves between the ribs can be jagged to provide even more of a bite. The shoulders (the inner and outer ribs) are wider to help cornering and braking performance. These tires are designed primarily for highway use, but will perform adequately in light to moderate snow and on level gravel and dirt roads.

2. For the most part, unless you specify an offroad tire option, highway all-season tires will probably be original equipment on your 4×4. Sometimes these tires have low rolling resistance, which helps increase fuel economy. The highway/all-season tire maintains the rib-type look, but the ribs consist of small, independent blocks positioned around the tire, which help it deliver greater performance in dirt and rain. The zigzag sipes in the blocks also help traction on snow and ice. This type of tire is an evolutionary step up from the highway rib tire. The more aggressive tread design helps it better deal with dirt and snow, so that as loose dirt and snow are compressed into the openings, you actually end up with more traction. At the same time, the all-season design provides good on- road perfirmance. The highway/all-season tire works well on dirt roads, gravel roads, sand, and in moderate snow, and provides a quiet, more comfortable ride.

3. The offroad/all-terrain tire has much more capability off the road. The tire features an interlocking tread design, which means that before the leading tread block leaves the ground, the following tread block has already come into contact with it. This allows the individual blocks to work together to help maintain ride quality and promote even wear. The multilitceted tread blocks also help deliver traction from any direction on dirt, sand, and gravel; provide handling, acceleration, and stopping ability that helps you quickly avoid a rock or a stump; and enable the vehicle to negotiate other obstacles as well. The lugs on the shoulder of the tire and the pockets between each lug foster good offroad steering response and traction.This is a tire for dirt trails, rocky trails, shallow mud, and moderate to heavy snow; it remains fairly civilized for highway use, though there may be some noise and comfort penalties.

4. As the designation suggests, the maximum-traction offroad tire is focused on offroad travel. Nonetheless, the newest designs can be acceptable for highway travel, though you will experience increased noise levels and potential traction loss in some highway driving situations. Notice that the interlocking tread design now features large, free-standing blocks. Also, the siping has been replaced by large gaps.The goal of this tire is to bite into loose or muddy surface areas for maximum traction and propel the vehicle forward. The very large opening between the lugs helps make the tire self-cleaning: The mud is compressed as the tire gets a grip and is then expelled as the tire rolls on. (Smaller grooves allow the mud to pack in between the lugs and not be expelled.) The wide grooves also help the tire perform well on loose shale and rocks. (Grooves that are too close together can’t get a grip, like a rock climber who can’t spread his fingers.)
The tire’s shoulder area has two designs to further enhance traction on loose or muddy surfaces. The varying shoulder width offers different biting edges for traction, which makes the tire the only choice when you are likely to encounter deep ruts.To take full advantage of this feature, deliberately alternate right and left turns of the steering wheel; this will gently pinch the tire against the edges of deep ruts, which allows the shoulder lugs to claw at the sides of the rut and pull the vehicle forward. In effect, this tactic gives the impression of an additional lower gear. Though it’s probably too aggressive for deep sand, the maximum-traction tire is best on loose surfaces, mud, and extremely deep snow.